I attended a wine tasting of Umbrian wines, produced fully organically. Organic production easily leads to a philosophical discussion, as the wine essentially 'makes itself' from the grapes, and the well-timed squeeze of the vinter. Unfortunately, I was not overly impressed with the resulting product. While in some cases it developed for an extended period before bottling (2+ years) there was not a direct relationship to an improvement in quality of the wines. They did not measure up to their Italian brethren.
Regarding the whites, I'm predisposed to assess an Umbrian white (or any Italian white) two immediate strikes. Italian whites are Chris Gaines, why not stick to reds? Poor coloring, a less than floral nose, and a lackluster finish left me unimpressed, and having no inclination to purchase.
Unfortunately the reds really suffered on account of the fully organic production, resulting in very one-note wines. Coloring tended to be on the lighter side, and complexity was non-existent. The wines were very dry, and, in large quantity, would lead to puckering. I don't see how they would pair well with food. Normally, I prefer a bolder red (Brunello or Barolo), but, of the Umbrians, liked the lighter reds, which were more drinkable. Food/cheese parings (especially a brie) would most likely enhance the reds.
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